One of the most common things I have been asked about over the years is about face shapes , and TBH for a long time, I like many stylists just kind of winged it and used a combination of common sense and creativity . One day however I really wanted to understand this area and so I signed up for a course from one of the worlds masters , and damn was I ever glad I did . Once this area opened up for me it was a game changer in customer satisfaction . What could possibly be better . Only one thing could, sharing the deats so you can also have better communication and understanding with your stylist . So following are the basics of face shapes and hair .
To break this down to the basics you can think of matching any face shape with a hair style as doing one or two of these three things .
1 Adding on
2 Opening up
3 Closing off
So lets get into it .
Adding on simply refers to adding to areas that are in most cases too narrow, some samples would be head shapes that are too triangular through the top and needs more hair and volume in the corners, jaw lines that are diamond or heart shaped and can benefit from filling in a bit around the lower jaw / chin area, and long narrow head shapes that need a little density at the sides .
You would choose to open up your face if you want to accentuate features on your face . Face shapes that benefit from opening up include oval and heart .
Finally closing is an easy way to balance your face shape out more . Ideally Oval face shape is the most flattering so with all of these options we are trying to get as close to oval as possible, so if you have a long rectangular face shape or simply a high hairline and / or pronounced forehead a fringe can be a great solution . Additionally women with round head shapes can appear less round by having a longer hairstyle with some face framing layers a few inches below jaw length so the can let some pieces fall forward closing off the cheek area slightly while keeping the over all look soft .
So what are the head shapes and how can you figure out yours …
The basic face shapes can be narrowed down to seven categories .
Square, strong angled jaw, everything from the forehead down to the jawline are the same width . Go for height on top and narrow sides . Centre and Side parts both look great, soft side fringes and texture also work, face framing layers below jaw , and bobs below jaw . Avoid straight lines, one length hair, blunt bangs & width.
Long Rectangular / Oblong, face shape is longer than it is wide only difference between the two being rectangular has a more squarish jaw while oblong has a longer jaw that is more round than square . Go for loose curls, beach waves, salon style blow outs with width and side volume over height, fringes can look great as well . Avoid sleek hair and IMO shorter cuts .
Round, the width of the face and length are more or less the same, I have met many who fall into this category that feel self conscious, if you are one of them, you should know that this shape is also known as “ baby face”, so change they way you are viewing yourself, you have youthful looks on your side . Go for deep side parts , side fringes, height on top, long bobs, long layers and shorter pixie cuts with sides and back taken extremely short . Avoid shorter layers with medium length hair, width and short blunt fringes .
Heart, the hairline is the widest part of the face with a narrow chin and sometimes prominent cheekbones . Go for fullness around the jawline or chin, side fringes and lobs . Avoid middle parts and short baby fringes .
Diamond, the forehead and jawline are the same width, cheekbones are also the widest part of the face . The main difference between diamond and heart shape is diamond has a narrower hairline / forehead . Go for fullness at the temple and chin, also try tucking hair behind the ears .
Pear, the opposite of heart will have a larger, sometimes squarish jawline with a narrow forehead .Go for layers , width at the temple and styles with length to at least collar bone, if going shorter make sure to add enough volume up top . Avoid one length , hair pulled back and pixies if possible .
Oval, the length of the face is longer than the width, and the jawline is more narrow than hairline. If you have an oval face shape, congrats ! Oval is the most proportional, often considered the most flattering . When viewing celebs you will find this face shape the most common in the celebrity world , especially chameleon singers such as Madonna , Gwen Stephanie and Beyoncé , if you have an oval face shape congrats, you can wear almost any hairstyle.
It’s never a bad idea to have an idea about your own face shape pre salon visit, but of course always remain open to your stylists feedback when discussing your best options . Face shape is an important piece of the puzzle but not the only piece . Your stylist also has to consider which variety of styling you are most likely to follow through with when sporting your new do, hair density and your particular texture , and of course sometimes the most important, your personality and which style you will rock like a boss !
